RoverTym 3/4" A-Arm Extension Install for a Discovery Series I

by Tom Pearson

Click on images for a larger picture

Introduction

The following outlines the install of the RoverTym A-Arm Extension on my 1997 Discovery SE. The point of this product is to assist in moving your rear axle more towards the rear of the vehicle. The goal in doing this is to make more room to clear larger tires without trimming the rear door.

This product can be found at RoverTym.Com. I can't say enough good things about the products and service I get from RoverTym, always top notch.

The install was carried out at Aedofab's shop. Once again, thanks to Mike Aedo for all the help with my Disco and for the on-the fly improvisations that he came up with to save my brake lines (see bottom of page).

The following is a picture of the A-Arm extension as delivered to me by RoverTym.



I would also recommend that you purchase new bolts and nuts, as the existing ones that you will remove during dissasembly may get destroyed or need to be cut. I sourced some from Roverconnection.com. The part numbers are 253952 (bolts) and NY608041L (nuts). Roverconnection has a really nice blow up of the area on their web site (Link to Pic)

Installation

Here are some shots of the stock setup. A bumper jack was used to raise the rear end up offering more room to work with and alleviating the problem of working under the weight of the Disco. The tires were still able to rest gently on the ground, so it wasn't at 100% full drop in the rear. Be sure to take the proper precautions and utilize jack stands and wheel chocks for safety.





Step 1
In the picture below, you can see that the axle breather tube is zip-tied to the upper link assembly. Clip off the zip ties and move it out of the way. Now is also a good time to extend the breather tube up to the gas tank if you haven't already.




Step 2

Secure a ratchet strap to the rear axle from the trailing link mount. This will prevent the axle from scooting backwards as you remove the bolts.




Step 3

Remove the bolts from the upper link assembly. A good shot with PB Blaster couldn't hurt. In the case of my truck, the bolts were not seized and came out pretty easily. Be careful removing the second bolt, as the Link assembly arms popped back up.




Step 4
Bolt on the A-Arm extension to the upper links. After the axle is freed from the upper links, it likes to move forward a bit. Use the ratchet strap connected to the rear hitch to pull the axle back to make it easier to line up the holes prior to bolting it back together. Also, use a c-clamp to hold everything together until you get the bolts through and tightened up.




Step 5
Bolt the extension down to the axle. Use a brass hammer to tap the assembly to line up the holes properly if necessary. After the bolts are through and tight, you can remove the ratchet strap. It's a good idea to use some anti-seize on all the bolts.
In my case, I also inserted 7/8" worth of spacers into the trailing links to line up the pinion for the use of my rear CV shaft. Use




Brake Line Issues

In the case of my truck with the RoverTym cones and long shocks, the stainless steel break line extensions were proving to not be quite long enough. Also, the ABS wiring was extended to it maximum. It is rare that the entire axle would be at full droop, but better be safe than sorry. Luckily the install was happening at Aedofab, so Mike whipped up a new brake line mount to make up for the difference. In my scenario, the stock one was removed and replaced with the new version. The pics show the stock one on the left and the new one made to be taller and move the brake lines forward.




Wrap-Up

As you can see, there now is plenty of room for the rear tire behind the door with the 3/4" A-Arm extension and 7/8" worth of trailing-link spacers. I may have to do more trimming to the rear fender behind the wheel, but that is a lot easier than dealing with the door.

I still haven't had time to do some flexing tests to make sure everything is perfect and my rub problems on the rear door have been solved. Also, chatting with some folks has led me to believe that I may need to use some wedges to angle my lower spring mounts. I'll post an update in a couple weeks or so after I have had some time to test it all out.